Bream Fishing - Reveal the Bait and Rig Tricks Needed

Throughout the coarse fishing calendar there are optimum times to target each of the species that swim in waters.

Over the past few months, predatory species like perch and pike have been at the top of the agenda for many specimen anglers, but now that the days are getting longer, a new set of targets emerges on the horizon. Heading this list are big bream, which begin to feed hard in early spring as they pack on condition ahead of spawning.

This tunnel vision, coupled with the fact that bream are a sociable species that often live in big shoals, means that if you get it right, a big ‘hit’ of bream is possible.

CHOOSE THE RIGHT VENUE

There’s an old saying in angling that goes ‘you can only catch what’s in front of you’ - in other words, you can’t hope to catch big fish if you’re in the wrong swim or, worse still, on the wrong venue.

While bream can be found in all manner of stillwaters, canals and slow-moving rivers, the larger ones tend to thrive in big venues, meaning that lakes, gravel pits and reservoirs ofer a far better chance of angling success than small ponds or commercial carp venues, where the lack of room and extra competition for food tend to restrict their size potential.

Once a venue with promise or a track record for producing big bream has been selected, the next task is to use a marker rod to find an area within that venue which the bream like to visit. Locating such spots is fairly straightforward, especially if you keep your eyes peeled.

First of all, big bream very rarely come in close to the margins, so it’s worth concentrating your eforts in the main body of the lake. They seem to show a preference for deeper water areas, and hate weed, much preferring a clean lakebed to feed over. Features such as deep silty gullies or gravel plateaux can be really productive.

Even if the venue has a low stock of bream, they are creatures of habit and often give themselves away by rolling on the surface, especially at dawn and dusk.

KEEP YOUR RIGS SHORT

Simplicity is the name of the game when it comes to rigs for catching big bream, with basic feeder or leger rigs being the order of the day. They can, of course, also be caught on float fishing tactics, although on most venues this is impractical owing to the distance from the bank big bream shoals are often found.

Bream move slowly along the lakebed as they feed, filtering out food items from the silt, without ever moving far from the deck. This means that a short hooklink is needed for maximising pick-ups.

“Hooklinks need to be no more than about four to six inches long. I use Korum Xpert Power Braid, which is soft and flexible, in 10lb breaking strain, knotless knotted to a size 10 hook.”

“I use this with two basic rigs. The first incorporates a 60g Dura-Method feeder, which might sound a little heavy, but it’s needed to cast the range the bream are often found at. I set mine up with a short length if rig tubing above, mainly to reduce the chance of the mainly being damaged on any unseen snags.

My second big bream rig is a scaled down carp rig incorporating a basic safety lead clip. This is a good choice if there are any weedbeds or other snags if the vicinity.

Again , I use this with a short hooklink, and for extra loosefeed, I simply nick a golfball-sized PVA mesh bag of groundbait or pellets onto the hook before casting out.

 USE THE RIGHT TOOLS

Although bream are notorious for the lack of lighting ability, once they surpass 10lb they can start to ‘pull back a bit’, meaning you’ll need use something a little more robust than a standard feeder rod and reel.

What’s more, the repeated action of punching out a fully-loaded Method feeder will soon highlight any weaknesses in your set-up.

A rod in the 1.5lb to 2lb test curve range is recommended, coupled with a reel loaded with a strong mono mainline.

“My preferred kit is a pair of 1.75lb test curve Xpert rods, which have plenty of backbone but are forgiving enough in the tip to avoid hookpulls at the net if the fish lunges away from the mesh.”

“I like to couple these with a pair of medium-sized freespool reels loaded with a 10lb or 12lb mono, depending on the size of the fish I expect to catch”.

LAY THE TABLE

Bream have a highly varied diet, and can be caught using both natural and man-made hookbaits. Lobworms, maggots, casters and corn are all excellent choices, and rubber baits (particualrly corn and casters) certainly have their place, especially if small nuisance species are present. Bream are also fond of fishmeal-based oferings such as pellets, boilies and groundbait.

My three favourite hookbaits are corn, boilies or rubber casters. Sometimes I use diferent hookbaits on each of my rods in a bid to find which the fish prefer on the day.”

One really important aspect of successful big bream fishing is the amount of  loosefeed that needs to be used to keep the shoal occupied. If you fail to lay the table suiciently, the shoal will move on, just like a herd of cattle moving to richer pastures.

“Bream love bait, as simple as that, and lots of it. If the shoal you are targeting are within catapult range then you can use jafa-sized balls of groundbait laced with goodies like small pellets, casters and corn, or if the area you are targeting is over about 40 yards, it’s best to use a spod. My bream spod mix consists of small pellets, hemp, corn and casters. If I’m using boilies on the hook, I’ll add whole and crushed boilies to the mix. Sometimes I add a squirt of liquid flavor too.”

CAST ON THE MONEY!

Whether you use a catapult or spod to bait up, it’s important to make sure that you can cast your rigs accurately over the same area. There are several ways to do this. The first is to pop your marker float up over the area, then cast your rigs alongside the float before putting the mainline in the clip on your reel.

Then, use some fine pole elastic to tie a slip knot in your mainline where it exits the tip ring of your rod. Once you’ve cast out, and the line has hit the clip, you can be safe in the knowledge your rig is on the money. It’s then just a case of taking the line out of the clip while the rig is fishing. When it comes to recasting, you simply reel in the mainline until the marker knot is at the tip ring, slip the line into your line clip, and repeat the casting procedure.

Another method is to use specially-designed ‘marker sticks’. These are stuck vertically in the ground behind your swim at a distance of one rod length apart. You then take your spod and place it next to one of the sticks, open your spod reel’s bail arm and wrap the line backwards and forwards between and around the sticks until you reach where it is in the line clip (having ‘clipped up’ your spod while baiting up).

You then have a permanent record of how far out your baited area is, and can write it down. For example, if you find your spod rod is clipped up at, say, six and a half ‘wraps’, you can then clip your  fishing rods up at the same range, safe in the  knowledge you are fishing accurately.

BECOME A NIGHT OWL...

The final consideration to make when targeting big bream is the timing of your session. Although, strictly speaking, they can be caught at any hour, bream are mainly nocturnal fedeers, with activity normally beginning after dusk and curtailing soon after first light. You’ll know when they have begun feeding by the indications they give when bumping into your mainline.  This is normally the precursor to a night of bagging.

“Bream will give lots of line bites once  they are in your swim, making your bobbins dance about like crazy! It’s important not to strike at these ‘liners’. When you get a proper take, the bobbin will normally lift up and stay up.”

“If the line bites stop and you haven’t had a bite, it’s worth a couple of casts with the spod rod to top the swim up to encourage the fish back into the swim.

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Feeder Fishing - How to Pick the Perfect Feeder ?

When it comes to fishing a feeder, the modern angler has got it made, unlike the 60s and 70s when you had little choice other than to make your own!

These days, tackle shop shelves creak under the weight of diferent shapes, sizes and types of feeder that guarantee almost any angler can expect to cast and catch.

Flatbed Methods, pellet, cage, blockend and open-end are the main types you will find, but having so much choice is not always a good thing. Especially if you are a newcomer to the sport. But if you learn the basics of what each diferent feeder does it makes selection choice a lot easier.

Feeder advantages

In this era of poles, the feeder often ends up playing second fiddle. But it does ofer a number of distinct benefits. Firstly, if the fish are beyond pole/waggler range, as they often are early season on big lakes, it enables you to cast a hookbait to where the fish are. Also, unlike float fishing, you very rarely foul-hook fish on the feeder.

If you see fish fizzing but are struggling to get a bite, even on the pole line, a small feeder flicked over the top will often see you catching those previously uncatchable fish, It’s a little trick that can make a massive diference to the day.

If the weather is poor, very windy for example, the feeder creates a much better presentation. Finally, as it needs packing with bait prior to casting, it forces you to loosefeed, so you top up the swim with every cast.

The blockend (maggot) feeder

Usually the preserve of the river angler, maggot feeders are making a comeback on stillwaters.

In the winter, a maggot feeder is ideal. They love maggots, but to catch, you also need to feed maggots. A maggot feeder is the best way to do this. The one place I find it works very well is on snake lakes that are wider than you can fish with a pole. Maggot feeders can create small-fish problems in the warmer months, but during winter and early season, they are excellent.

Cage or open-ended feeder ?

When fishing groundbait, knowing whether to pick a cage or open-end feeder can be confusing. They look fairly similar so does it even matter ?

The only diference between these two types is how quickly they are able to release their Payloads, If I am looking to create a cloud in the water, with a bit of bait coming out on-the-drop to spread a carpet of feed, I’ll opt for a cage. Conversely, if I want to create a tighter patch of loosefeed, I use an open-end, that is open at one end only.

When using chopped worm or other particles, he often tapes up the holes around the body of the feeder to create a cylinder. This acts like a baitdropper, only releasing its payload once on  the lakebed. To eat, the fish have to come to the feeder itself, so they are easier to catch because the hookbait is close by.

One trick I use is to pack a taped-up feeder with compacted, neat crumb, this produces plenty of attraction with nothing to eat but the hookbait. It’s a great edge that I have kept up my sleeve for many years now.”

To set up his groundbait feeders, a snaplink swivel on to the mainline, followed by a very small bead, then ties a couple of loops in the end to form a boom to help prevent the hooklink tangling. It is also important that the bead can’t slip over the loop knots.

I use 5lb-6lb mainline with hooklinks of 3lb-4lb (depending on the target species) and starting around 12 inches long.

The modern pellet feeder

Pellet feeders have been around for a decade or so and have enjoyed storming success. They are very easy to load, catch well in both open water and up to features, such as islands, and the way they are designed means the fish can only get to the loosefeed from one direction.

This means that they are forced to come into contact with the hookbait if they want to eat the loosefeed, which makes these feeders highly efective fish-catchers.

The only downside is that you must use pellets in them because pure groundbait will clog the feeder, although Des tops of his pellet payload with a smear of crumb to create a cloud in the water to produce much quicker bites on certain days.

I recommend a rod of 10ft-11ft, 8lb mainline and a 4in hooklink. A Preston Innovations PR36 hook is perfect for side-hooking or hair-rigging baits. Feeder size and weight depends on the range you are looking to fish and whether the feed area is flat or sloped. Further out or more sloped, the heavier you use.

“If you only use one feeder, make  sure it’s a Method with a mould”

The Method

Unarguably one of the greatest inventions to grace the banks, the Method feeder has come a long way since its conception in the 1990s. Previously rock-hard cricket balls of particle-laced groundbait have now given way to the flatbed feeder, which can be fished with moist micro pellets, fine groundbait or a mix of both.

These days you want the payload to melt as soon as the feeder hits the deck. I prefer either Sonubaits Sticky Method pellets or Match Method Mix groundbait. It is important that the groundbait is not made too wet because it clogs and doesn’t break down well in the swim.”

Similar to the pellet feeder, i adopt a similar set-up for the Method with Preston Innovations 8lb Power Max for the mainline and either 0.17mm (6lb 12oz) or 0.19mm (7lb 6oz) Powerline for the 4in hooklink. Again, the hook is a PR36.

“For hookbaits, I use all sorts. Meat, dyed with the new Sonubaits Larva, Band ’Ums, pellets, boilies or even dead maggots. Every day is diferent with what they want on the hook.” Every feeder difers slightly, making it better for certain species, certain conditions and certain venues. Understanding why you have made your choice will see you catching so much more.

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Fishing Lures - How Can I Increase My Conversion Rate ?

Like most lure anglers I have those days when the fish seem to be just nipping at the tail of the lure but won’t take, or on surface lures swirl at it and miss, or sometimes they follow but don’t take. How can I increase my conversion rate ?

 We’ve all had those sorts of days! The reasons for ‘short takes’ as they tend to be called in game fishing, are quite varied, so there’s no one thing that you can do that can cure the problem. I’ll try to answer this very methodically.

First off, those days when you get a lot of follows but the fish just never seem to build up enough aggression to hit the lure or even take a swirl and miss: In my experience this happens mostly on very bright, calm days with very clear water. Put these three factors together and it strongly suggests that the fish can very easily see the lure for exactly what it is – a fake. So why do they follow it ?

Well, fish, bass in particular, seem to have an inbuilt curiosity, and when you add that to the very lifelike actions of lures nowadays they can’t really help themselves, they have to come and have a look at it.

These are tough days to catch fish on, but a couple of things have worked for me. One is to reduce the size of the lure, going for very small patterns, and also avoid really lairy colours. Transparent or semi-transparent lures can sometimes win takes. The other option is to switch to fly tactics, which can also get some takes.

When fish seem to be nipping at the tail of lures, which can happen with soft lures, it sometimes happens because the lure is just a bit too big. Dropping down a size can make a big difference. 

If tail nipping keeps happening, try halting the retrieve to mimic a fish being injured by a nip to the tail as this can draw a take. Speeding up the retrieve to make it look like a desperate escape can work too, as can giving the lure a quick, decisive twitch with the rod tip – just try something different.

Predators actually work on quite small margins of success. They don’t get dinner every time they attack, so being persistent and giving them plenty of opportunities to make that fatal error can win in the end.

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Hook Patterns - What Are The Best Hook Paterns ?

I’m a sea fishing beginner and I started by using ready-made rigs, which I did well with, but now I want to make some of my own. What are the best hook patterns to use ? Most of my ready rigs had Aberdeen hooks on them, but are these always the best ?

The basic long-shanked Aberdeen pattern is many sea anglers’ go-to hook. This round-bend pattern offers good hooking potential, it’s long enough in the shank to enable good sized baits to be used, and that long shank also makes it one of the easier hook patterns to remove from fish.

This basic pattern is available in a decent variety of wire strengths too, from ultra-light match hooks on very fine wire, to very heavy wire versions for bigger fish.

However, looking at the Aberdeen pattern closely, you can see that it’s not perfect for all baits or angling scenarios.

The gape – which is the gap between the hook point and the shank – is usually fairly narrow on the Aberdeen pattern, which means that very bulky baits like peeler crab can be a problem, although with
worm baits it is fine. For bulkier baits good choices are Viking or uptide-pattern hooks. These are slightly shorter in the shank than typical Aberdeen hooks, ut they have a much wider gape and are normally construted on thicker, stronger wire.

These are popular choices for constructing Pennel rigs and for targeting bigger species like cod, huss, smoothhounds and rays.The slightly shorter shank on these hooks actually increases the strength too, because it reduces the leverage that can be applied on the hook, which could cause it to straighten out.

Going up even more in strength, O’Shaughnessy pattern hooks have a slightly straightened bend and usually an out-turned point. These are made in even thicker wire, often forged for even greater strength, and are used for big baits for big fish like conger.

As well as these traditionally named patterns, some manufacturers have their own names for hooks in similar shapes with subtle differences, perhaps in the length of the shank for example, which will do the same job.

These basic patterns will serve you well on the majority of rigs, and it’s as well to become familiar with these before venturing into the area of very short-shank, semi-circle and circle hooks, to name but three types.

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Wire Trace - Simple Steps How to make a wire trace ?

Lure Fishing Wire Trace

Tying the rig for this active, mobile tactic could hardly be simpler. Here’s how

Lure fishing for pike is a great way to spend a short session now that we have entered the traditional predator season. Nothing beats the buzz of the take when a pike decides to take your lure. Fishing with lures is a great way to cover a lot of water and makes a great change from more static forms of pike fishing.

While you can buy ready-made traces, they are very easy to make but it is important to use the right components. Quality swivels and snaps are a must, along with wire of at least 30lb breaking strain.
Strong components are required not just because pike fight hard, but also because the constant casting involved in lure fishing means that all of your tackle comes under tremendous strain.

This trace is easy to construct and has been designed to be suitable for a wide range of lures weighing up to about 2oz, making it great to use with spinners, spoons, soft plastic lures and crankbaits.

How to make a wire trace ?

YOU WILL NEED

• 30lb PikePro seven strand Wire    
• Cross Lock wivel   
• Barrel covers
• Swivel covers
• Crimps
• Crimping Pliers
• Wire Cutters

STEP

1) Fold over the last 5cm of 60cm of wire, pass it through the eye of a swivel, then pass the swivel through the loop. Pull down tight.



2) Thread a crimp of the correct size on to the end of the wire and its tag end. Use a crimping tool to fix it securely in place.



3) Thread two swivel covers on to the wire, facing in opposite directions so that they partially cover the swivels at both ends of the trace.



4) Fix a Cross Lock swivel to the other end of the wire secured with another crimp. This enables you to quickly change the lure when required.



5) Pull the swivel covers only just over the ends of the swivels. This creates a more streamlined trace that is less likely to tangle.

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Fish Bait from Yeast - How to Make it By Phil Ringer

Fish Rise to The Yeast Feeder

What do you get if you fish a rig with all the attraction and fish-bagging goodness of a PVA bag, but without using any PVA? Or a rig that provides the same catching-power as the Method feeder, without having the splash and commotion caused when the set-up hits the water ?

The answer... a pellet cone.

Originally invented by Andy Findlay in the mid-2000s, the pellet cone has become a regular tactic on many of the UK’s commercial waters. One man that uses it extensively is Phil Ringer.As a member of the world-title-winning England International Feeder team as well as being a prolifi  c matchman, Phil is always looking for an edge to increase his chances of catching more.

Most recently, this edge has come in the form of Brewer’s yeast powder – which he adds to his loosefeed pellets – and a new boilie from his own company, Ringer Baits.

Pellet Cone Plus Points

The pellet cone works exactly as its name implies. A quantity of slightly softened micro pellets are squeezed into a small hollow cone hopper, before a baiting needle is pushed through its centre and the finished article threaded on to the hooklink. The plastic cone hopper is then removed leaving a perfectly baited rig. 

The pellet cone offers a host of advantages. Firstly, as water temperatures drop, fi  sh are less inclined to eat loads. The pellet cone is perfect in this scenario as it offers the fi  sh a single mouthful with a neat pile of pellets around the hookbait.

“I look at it as one cast, equals one fish,” said Phil. “Unlike the Method feeder, which still works to some extent in the winter months, the pellet cone is not a tool for building up a swim. It is more a case of casting to an area, not on the clip, looking to
fish for bites rather than bag up.”

The second plus point is that it is very discreet in the swim, as there is no feeder to alert the fi  sh to danger.And, unlike PVA, which is now banned in a lot of matches and on some venues, there’s no waiting for the bag to melt.In very cold water, a PVA bag can take several minutes to melt. During this time you aren’t fishing because there is no loosefeed in
the swim.

“The final advantage can also be one of its few downsides too. Being a cone of pellets that is threaded on to the hooklink, the rig will cast well, but requires you to use a much heavier lead than normal.

“Because the cone sits on the end of the hooklink, if you use a standard-sized lead the rig will tumble through the air, causing tangles. Worse still the cone could break up in mid-air or as it hits the surface. To combat this, the lead has to be at least an ounce.

Pellet Preparation

To get the most out of the tactic it is crucial that the pellets used to form the cone are prepared correctly. If they are not sticky enough, the cone will explode on the cast or on contact with the water’s surface which will result in you fi  shing a single hookbait with no loosefeed around it.

To combat this, we stole an idea from the England Feeder Team Manager, Tommy Pickering, as well as adding his own stroke of  genius to the recipe. With a cone, you can use any pellets you like,  ideally 4mm or 6mm micros. The larger pellets are better because they tend to be different to what everyone uses, plus they stop the fish becoming preoccupied on small food items.

“The problem with larger pellets is even when they have been soaked to moisten and make them sticky, you are left with air gaps between the larger individual pellets once they are loaded into the cone, you uses micro pellets as well as larger ones in his loosefeed mix. These are used as ‘gap-fillers’, but you still have larger items in the loosefeed to hold the bigger fi  sh in your swim. I prepare my loosefeed in a 70:15:15 ratio.

That’s 70 per cent micros, and 15 per cent each of 4mms and 6mms. You could use groundbait as a gap-filler but it tends to attract smaller fish.Make sure that his prepared pellets bind well.

By adding a tablespoon of brewer’s yeast to the moistened pellet mixture, i am able to create a mixture that is extremely sticky. More importantly, though, it produces a potent smell and flavour cloud in the water which will pull fish in from the surrounding area.

“Yeast has been used as an ingredient in boilies for many years because it is a product carp adore. If the pellets aren’t sticky enough with one spoonful, simply add a bit more until you get the desired fi  nal product.

Loading and Fishing the Cone

To load the cone, you can squeezes his pellet combo into the cone’s hopper. The baiting needle is then pushed through the cone from the thin end. This enables him to pull the hooklink back through the cone, so that the hookbait rests against the wide end. Doing it this way ensures that when the cone is cast the thin end travels first, making the presentation much more aerodynamic.

I always has a second cone loaded and ready to go. This means i just needs to unclip one hooklink and replace it with the next, already cone-loaded. To fish it, i recommends casting a comfortable distance, all the while aiming at a permanent far-bank marker.

The cone can be used to fi  sh one spot or as an opportunistic tool. That is the beauty of it over, say, the Method. Once the cone is in the water, I look to cast around every 10 minutes just to freshen the swim. I will extend this to 15 or even 20 minutes in the depths of winter.

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Gear Guide Tackle - New Gear that Will Help You for Fishing

Gear Guide Tackle - We take a look at the new gear that will help you put more and bigger fish on the bank. Here a list equipments we recomendation for your fishing

JRC COCOON LANDING NET

 

Using a stiff carbon composite handle for rigidity when netting, along with a neat quick-release spreader block, the Cocoon landing net has some unique features.

Firstly, the folding stainless-steel spreader block that holds the net solid in place thanks to its unique divider allows the net to be broken down by simply releasing tension on the net arms and pushing the divider out of the way. Another great addition is the magnetic mesh retainer system. Unlike clip retainers that can often take quite a bit of force to release, the magnet will release without fail and the fish is engulfed. The result is a net that will be easy to move around during netting, yet will have ample room for a netted fish.

With EVA foam fitted on the net arms to maintain buoyancy and an easy-grip shrink-wrap handle it’s an impressive net for the price.

NASH SLAPHEAD INDICATOR RANGE

 

Having been in the Nash range for years the Slapheads need no introduction with old-school anglers. More recently Nash went back to the drawing board to improve on this great indication concept.

Available in white PTFE or the stealthy looking black, the Slapheads feature an integrated magnetic clip that safely secures your line but will quickly disengage when the rod is picked up. The magnet eradicates the need to adjust the clips, meaning tha the Slapheads can be used with the everything from the thickest of fluorocarbon main lines to the thinnest of braids without any reduction in tension.

Available in sizes ranging from 6g for slack-line work all the way to 40g for extreme range work, there is a version for every carp angling discipline. Additional drag weights are available too if yo want to go heavier.

The system is fully customisable with both chains and strong arms available. This complete indication system is interchangeab based on your preference. Well worth checking out if you love trying new indicators.

STILLWATER BPX REEL

 

Many anglers want to get out on the bank without spending lots of money to do so. The BPX free-spool gives you that option. Featuring the same ball bearing and performance as the BPX compact with the included free-spool feature, the reel performs brilliantly as a fishing reel or even as a marker reel.

With simple drag features and a cushioning line clip it represents great value for money.

WYCHWOOD 201 SERIES CARP RODS

 

With both the cork-handled C201 and Duplon D201, the 201 series are stylish yet still shouldn’t be sniffed at for performance. Despite their affordable price tag they are impressive rods.

Neat fixtures and fittings include a line clip and 50mm ringing orientation coupled with the multi layer technology that gives the blank more power yet maintains its playing action. Used by the likes of Jon Macallister and Nigel Sharp, who demand reliable gear for their big-fish angling, it’s clear that they more than stand up for the job.
 
Wychwood has also got a lifetime warranty policy on the 201 range, meaning that in the unlikely event they are damaged they will be replaced.

PROLOGIC STERI-7 FISH CARE ANTISEPTIC SPRAY

 

Utilising the latest in fish care technology the team at Prologic formulated a liquid that performs brilliantly as an antiseptic. Tested against well-known fish pathogens it aids in the healing process of fish, while also providing protection against aquatic diseases.

The spray is easy to use. Simply apply it to the fi sh’s wound in its body or mouth, then leave it for 15 seconds before returning the fish. It will create a barrier that prevents infections. A must for all self-respecting carp anglers.

SHIMANO TX COMPACT ROD

 

A four-piece carp rod is the ideal travel rod or makes the perfect rod for anglers going travelling on the Continent. Like the rest of the Tribal range the rods come in three diff ering test curves, from 2.75lb to 3.5lb with 50mm butt rings in the  two top test curves.

With stylish graphics and lightweight single-leg rings on the tip sections this makes the  rod light, which is much easier when casting. A great rod for anglers wanting to save space.

RIDGEMONKEY BAIT SPOONS

 

Whether it be mixing bait, or applying it to a margin spot, baiting spoons come handy in your fishing. These ones from Ridgemonkey do just the job. Using rigid heavy-duty plastic these stiff bait spoons can be used to apply bait to an area within throwing distance, or loading up your Spomb before casting out.

There are two colours available – white and green – with an ‘air’ version that features drainage holes for using with mixes containing a lot of liquid.

TASKA 13.9 PRO EDITION ADJUSTABLE  2-ROD BUZZ BARS

 

Designed and developed in the UK to Team Taska’s exacting standards the new stainless features neat adjustable collars that allow you to customise the width of your buzz bars to your preference. Adorned with discreet red nuances of the Taska brand, the chunky feel gives them a rock-solid appearance when set up. A full range of the new stainless  products complement these buzz bars with matching banksticks and stabilisers to allow you to fully  customise your setup.

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