Bream Fishing - Reveal the Bait and Rig Tricks Needed

Throughout the coarse fishing calendar there are optimum times to target each of the species that swim in waters.

Over the past few months, predatory species like perch and pike have been at the top of the agenda for many specimen anglers, but now that the days are getting longer, a new set of targets emerges on the horizon. Heading this list are big bream, which begin to feed hard in early spring as they pack on condition ahead of spawning.

This tunnel vision, coupled with the fact that bream are a sociable species that often live in big shoals, means that if you get it right, a big ‘hit’ of bream is possible.

CHOOSE THE RIGHT VENUE

There’s an old saying in angling that goes ‘you can only catch what’s in front of you’ - in other words, you can’t hope to catch big fish if you’re in the wrong swim or, worse still, on the wrong venue.

While bream can be found in all manner of stillwaters, canals and slow-moving rivers, the larger ones tend to thrive in big venues, meaning that lakes, gravel pits and reservoirs ofer a far better chance of angling success than small ponds or commercial carp venues, where the lack of room and extra competition for food tend to restrict their size potential.

Once a venue with promise or a track record for producing big bream has been selected, the next task is to use a marker rod to find an area within that venue which the bream like to visit. Locating such spots is fairly straightforward, especially if you keep your eyes peeled.

First of all, big bream very rarely come in close to the margins, so it’s worth concentrating your eforts in the main body of the lake. They seem to show a preference for deeper water areas, and hate weed, much preferring a clean lakebed to feed over. Features such as deep silty gullies or gravel plateaux can be really productive.

Even if the venue has a low stock of bream, they are creatures of habit and often give themselves away by rolling on the surface, especially at dawn and dusk.

KEEP YOUR RIGS SHORT

Simplicity is the name of the game when it comes to rigs for catching big bream, with basic feeder or leger rigs being the order of the day. They can, of course, also be caught on float fishing tactics, although on most venues this is impractical owing to the distance from the bank big bream shoals are often found.

Bream move slowly along the lakebed as they feed, filtering out food items from the silt, without ever moving far from the deck. This means that a short hooklink is needed for maximising pick-ups.

“Hooklinks need to be no more than about four to six inches long. I use Korum Xpert Power Braid, which is soft and flexible, in 10lb breaking strain, knotless knotted to a size 10 hook.”

“I use this with two basic rigs. The first incorporates a 60g Dura-Method feeder, which might sound a little heavy, but it’s needed to cast the range the bream are often found at. I set mine up with a short length if rig tubing above, mainly to reduce the chance of the mainly being damaged on any unseen snags.

My second big bream rig is a scaled down carp rig incorporating a basic safety lead clip. This is a good choice if there are any weedbeds or other snags if the vicinity.

Again , I use this with a short hooklink, and for extra loosefeed, I simply nick a golfball-sized PVA mesh bag of groundbait or pellets onto the hook before casting out.

 USE THE RIGHT TOOLS

Although bream are notorious for the lack of lighting ability, once they surpass 10lb they can start to ‘pull back a bit’, meaning you’ll need use something a little more robust than a standard feeder rod and reel.

What’s more, the repeated action of punching out a fully-loaded Method feeder will soon highlight any weaknesses in your set-up.

A rod in the 1.5lb to 2lb test curve range is recommended, coupled with a reel loaded with a strong mono mainline.

“My preferred kit is a pair of 1.75lb test curve Xpert rods, which have plenty of backbone but are forgiving enough in the tip to avoid hookpulls at the net if the fish lunges away from the mesh.”

“I like to couple these with a pair of medium-sized freespool reels loaded with a 10lb or 12lb mono, depending on the size of the fish I expect to catch”.

LAY THE TABLE

Bream have a highly varied diet, and can be caught using both natural and man-made hookbaits. Lobworms, maggots, casters and corn are all excellent choices, and rubber baits (particualrly corn and casters) certainly have their place, especially if small nuisance species are present. Bream are also fond of fishmeal-based oferings such as pellets, boilies and groundbait.

My three favourite hookbaits are corn, boilies or rubber casters. Sometimes I use diferent hookbaits on each of my rods in a bid to find which the fish prefer on the day.”

One really important aspect of successful big bream fishing is the amount of  loosefeed that needs to be used to keep the shoal occupied. If you fail to lay the table suiciently, the shoal will move on, just like a herd of cattle moving to richer pastures.

“Bream love bait, as simple as that, and lots of it. If the shoal you are targeting are within catapult range then you can use jafa-sized balls of groundbait laced with goodies like small pellets, casters and corn, or if the area you are targeting is over about 40 yards, it’s best to use a spod. My bream spod mix consists of small pellets, hemp, corn and casters. If I’m using boilies on the hook, I’ll add whole and crushed boilies to the mix. Sometimes I add a squirt of liquid flavor too.”

CAST ON THE MONEY!

Whether you use a catapult or spod to bait up, it’s important to make sure that you can cast your rigs accurately over the same area. There are several ways to do this. The first is to pop your marker float up over the area, then cast your rigs alongside the float before putting the mainline in the clip on your reel.

Then, use some fine pole elastic to tie a slip knot in your mainline where it exits the tip ring of your rod. Once you’ve cast out, and the line has hit the clip, you can be safe in the knowledge your rig is on the money. It’s then just a case of taking the line out of the clip while the rig is fishing. When it comes to recasting, you simply reel in the mainline until the marker knot is at the tip ring, slip the line into your line clip, and repeat the casting procedure.

Another method is to use specially-designed ‘marker sticks’. These are stuck vertically in the ground behind your swim at a distance of one rod length apart. You then take your spod and place it next to one of the sticks, open your spod reel’s bail arm and wrap the line backwards and forwards between and around the sticks until you reach where it is in the line clip (having ‘clipped up’ your spod while baiting up).

You then have a permanent record of how far out your baited area is, and can write it down. For example, if you find your spod rod is clipped up at, say, six and a half ‘wraps’, you can then clip your  fishing rods up at the same range, safe in the  knowledge you are fishing accurately.

BECOME A NIGHT OWL...

The final consideration to make when targeting big bream is the timing of your session. Although, strictly speaking, they can be caught at any hour, bream are mainly nocturnal fedeers, with activity normally beginning after dusk and curtailing soon after first light. You’ll know when they have begun feeding by the indications they give when bumping into your mainline.  This is normally the precursor to a night of bagging.

“Bream will give lots of line bites once  they are in your swim, making your bobbins dance about like crazy! It’s important not to strike at these ‘liners’. When you get a proper take, the bobbin will normally lift up and stay up.”

“If the line bites stop and you haven’t had a bite, it’s worth a couple of casts with the spod rod to top the swim up to encourage the fish back into the swim.

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Feeder Fishing - How to Pick the Perfect Feeder ?

When it comes to fishing a feeder, the modern angler has got it made, unlike the 60s and 70s when you had little choice other than to make your own!

These days, tackle shop shelves creak under the weight of diferent shapes, sizes and types of feeder that guarantee almost any angler can expect to cast and catch.

Flatbed Methods, pellet, cage, blockend and open-end are the main types you will find, but having so much choice is not always a good thing. Especially if you are a newcomer to the sport. But if you learn the basics of what each diferent feeder does it makes selection choice a lot easier.

Feeder advantages

In this era of poles, the feeder often ends up playing second fiddle. But it does ofer a number of distinct benefits. Firstly, if the fish are beyond pole/waggler range, as they often are early season on big lakes, it enables you to cast a hookbait to where the fish are. Also, unlike float fishing, you very rarely foul-hook fish on the feeder.

If you see fish fizzing but are struggling to get a bite, even on the pole line, a small feeder flicked over the top will often see you catching those previously uncatchable fish, It’s a little trick that can make a massive diference to the day.

If the weather is poor, very windy for example, the feeder creates a much better presentation. Finally, as it needs packing with bait prior to casting, it forces you to loosefeed, so you top up the swim with every cast.

The blockend (maggot) feeder

Usually the preserve of the river angler, maggot feeders are making a comeback on stillwaters.

In the winter, a maggot feeder is ideal. They love maggots, but to catch, you also need to feed maggots. A maggot feeder is the best way to do this. The one place I find it works very well is on snake lakes that are wider than you can fish with a pole. Maggot feeders can create small-fish problems in the warmer months, but during winter and early season, they are excellent.

Cage or open-ended feeder ?

When fishing groundbait, knowing whether to pick a cage or open-end feeder can be confusing. They look fairly similar so does it even matter ?

The only diference between these two types is how quickly they are able to release their Payloads, If I am looking to create a cloud in the water, with a bit of bait coming out on-the-drop to spread a carpet of feed, I’ll opt for a cage. Conversely, if I want to create a tighter patch of loosefeed, I use an open-end, that is open at one end only.

When using chopped worm or other particles, he often tapes up the holes around the body of the feeder to create a cylinder. This acts like a baitdropper, only releasing its payload once on  the lakebed. To eat, the fish have to come to the feeder itself, so they are easier to catch because the hookbait is close by.

One trick I use is to pack a taped-up feeder with compacted, neat crumb, this produces plenty of attraction with nothing to eat but the hookbait. It’s a great edge that I have kept up my sleeve for many years now.”

To set up his groundbait feeders, a snaplink swivel on to the mainline, followed by a very small bead, then ties a couple of loops in the end to form a boom to help prevent the hooklink tangling. It is also important that the bead can’t slip over the loop knots.

I use 5lb-6lb mainline with hooklinks of 3lb-4lb (depending on the target species) and starting around 12 inches long.

The modern pellet feeder

Pellet feeders have been around for a decade or so and have enjoyed storming success. They are very easy to load, catch well in both open water and up to features, such as islands, and the way they are designed means the fish can only get to the loosefeed from one direction.

This means that they are forced to come into contact with the hookbait if they want to eat the loosefeed, which makes these feeders highly efective fish-catchers.

The only downside is that you must use pellets in them because pure groundbait will clog the feeder, although Des tops of his pellet payload with a smear of crumb to create a cloud in the water to produce much quicker bites on certain days.

I recommend a rod of 10ft-11ft, 8lb mainline and a 4in hooklink. A Preston Innovations PR36 hook is perfect for side-hooking or hair-rigging baits. Feeder size and weight depends on the range you are looking to fish and whether the feed area is flat or sloped. Further out or more sloped, the heavier you use.

“If you only use one feeder, make  sure it’s a Method with a mould”

The Method

Unarguably one of the greatest inventions to grace the banks, the Method feeder has come a long way since its conception in the 1990s. Previously rock-hard cricket balls of particle-laced groundbait have now given way to the flatbed feeder, which can be fished with moist micro pellets, fine groundbait or a mix of both.

These days you want the payload to melt as soon as the feeder hits the deck. I prefer either Sonubaits Sticky Method pellets or Match Method Mix groundbait. It is important that the groundbait is not made too wet because it clogs and doesn’t break down well in the swim.”

Similar to the pellet feeder, i adopt a similar set-up for the Method with Preston Innovations 8lb Power Max for the mainline and either 0.17mm (6lb 12oz) or 0.19mm (7lb 6oz) Powerline for the 4in hooklink. Again, the hook is a PR36.

“For hookbaits, I use all sorts. Meat, dyed with the new Sonubaits Larva, Band ’Ums, pellets, boilies or even dead maggots. Every day is diferent with what they want on the hook.” Every feeder difers slightly, making it better for certain species, certain conditions and certain venues. Understanding why you have made your choice will see you catching so much more.

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Hook Patterns - What Are The Best Hook Paterns ?

I’m a sea fishing beginner and I started by using ready-made rigs, which I did well with, but now I want to make some of my own. What are the best hook patterns to use ? Most of my ready rigs had Aberdeen hooks on them, but are these always the best ?

The basic long-shanked Aberdeen pattern is many sea anglers’ go-to hook. This round-bend pattern offers good hooking potential, it’s long enough in the shank to enable good sized baits to be used, and that long shank also makes it one of the easier hook patterns to remove from fish.

This basic pattern is available in a decent variety of wire strengths too, from ultra-light match hooks on very fine wire, to very heavy wire versions for bigger fish.

However, looking at the Aberdeen pattern closely, you can see that it’s not perfect for all baits or angling scenarios.

The gape – which is the gap between the hook point and the shank – is usually fairly narrow on the Aberdeen pattern, which means that very bulky baits like peeler crab can be a problem, although with
worm baits it is fine. For bulkier baits good choices are Viking or uptide-pattern hooks. These are slightly shorter in the shank than typical Aberdeen hooks, ut they have a much wider gape and are normally construted on thicker, stronger wire.

These are popular choices for constructing Pennel rigs and for targeting bigger species like cod, huss, smoothhounds and rays.The slightly shorter shank on these hooks actually increases the strength too, because it reduces the leverage that can be applied on the hook, which could cause it to straighten out.

Going up even more in strength, O’Shaughnessy pattern hooks have a slightly straightened bend and usually an out-turned point. These are made in even thicker wire, often forged for even greater strength, and are used for big baits for big fish like conger.

As well as these traditionally named patterns, some manufacturers have their own names for hooks in similar shapes with subtle differences, perhaps in the length of the shank for example, which will do the same job.

These basic patterns will serve you well on the majority of rigs, and it’s as well to become familiar with these before venturing into the area of very short-shank, semi-circle and circle hooks, to name but three types.

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Wire Trace - Simple Steps How to make a wire trace ?

Lure Fishing Wire Trace

Tying the rig for this active, mobile tactic could hardly be simpler. Here’s how

Lure fishing for pike is a great way to spend a short session now that we have entered the traditional predator season. Nothing beats the buzz of the take when a pike decides to take your lure. Fishing with lures is a great way to cover a lot of water and makes a great change from more static forms of pike fishing.

While you can buy ready-made traces, they are very easy to make but it is important to use the right components. Quality swivels and snaps are a must, along with wire of at least 30lb breaking strain.
Strong components are required not just because pike fight hard, but also because the constant casting involved in lure fishing means that all of your tackle comes under tremendous strain.

This trace is easy to construct and has been designed to be suitable for a wide range of lures weighing up to about 2oz, making it great to use with spinners, spoons, soft plastic lures and crankbaits.

How to make a wire trace ?

YOU WILL NEED

• 30lb PikePro seven strand Wire    
• Cross Lock wivel   
• Barrel covers
• Swivel covers
• Crimps
• Crimping Pliers
• Wire Cutters

STEP

1) Fold over the last 5cm of 60cm of wire, pass it through the eye of a swivel, then pass the swivel through the loop. Pull down tight.



2) Thread a crimp of the correct size on to the end of the wire and its tag end. Use a crimping tool to fix it securely in place.



3) Thread two swivel covers on to the wire, facing in opposite directions so that they partially cover the swivels at both ends of the trace.



4) Fix a Cross Lock swivel to the other end of the wire secured with another crimp. This enables you to quickly change the lure when required.



5) Pull the swivel covers only just over the ends of the swivels. This creates a more streamlined trace that is less likely to tangle.

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Fish Bait from Yeast - How to Make it By Phil Ringer

Fish Rise to The Yeast Feeder

What do you get if you fish a rig with all the attraction and fish-bagging goodness of a PVA bag, but without using any PVA? Or a rig that provides the same catching-power as the Method feeder, without having the splash and commotion caused when the set-up hits the water ?

The answer... a pellet cone.

Originally invented by Andy Findlay in the mid-2000s, the pellet cone has become a regular tactic on many of the UK’s commercial waters. One man that uses it extensively is Phil Ringer.As a member of the world-title-winning England International Feeder team as well as being a prolifi  c matchman, Phil is always looking for an edge to increase his chances of catching more.

Most recently, this edge has come in the form of Brewer’s yeast powder – which he adds to his loosefeed pellets – and a new boilie from his own company, Ringer Baits.

Pellet Cone Plus Points

The pellet cone works exactly as its name implies. A quantity of slightly softened micro pellets are squeezed into a small hollow cone hopper, before a baiting needle is pushed through its centre and the finished article threaded on to the hooklink. The plastic cone hopper is then removed leaving a perfectly baited rig. 

The pellet cone offers a host of advantages. Firstly, as water temperatures drop, fi  sh are less inclined to eat loads. The pellet cone is perfect in this scenario as it offers the fi  sh a single mouthful with a neat pile of pellets around the hookbait.

“I look at it as one cast, equals one fish,” said Phil. “Unlike the Method feeder, which still works to some extent in the winter months, the pellet cone is not a tool for building up a swim. It is more a case of casting to an area, not on the clip, looking to
fish for bites rather than bag up.”

The second plus point is that it is very discreet in the swim, as there is no feeder to alert the fi  sh to danger.And, unlike PVA, which is now banned in a lot of matches and on some venues, there’s no waiting for the bag to melt.In very cold water, a PVA bag can take several minutes to melt. During this time you aren’t fishing because there is no loosefeed in
the swim.

“The final advantage can also be one of its few downsides too. Being a cone of pellets that is threaded on to the hooklink, the rig will cast well, but requires you to use a much heavier lead than normal.

“Because the cone sits on the end of the hooklink, if you use a standard-sized lead the rig will tumble through the air, causing tangles. Worse still the cone could break up in mid-air or as it hits the surface. To combat this, the lead has to be at least an ounce.

Pellet Preparation

To get the most out of the tactic it is crucial that the pellets used to form the cone are prepared correctly. If they are not sticky enough, the cone will explode on the cast or on contact with the water’s surface which will result in you fi  shing a single hookbait with no loosefeed around it.

To combat this, we stole an idea from the England Feeder Team Manager, Tommy Pickering, as well as adding his own stroke of  genius to the recipe. With a cone, you can use any pellets you like,  ideally 4mm or 6mm micros. The larger pellets are better because they tend to be different to what everyone uses, plus they stop the fish becoming preoccupied on small food items.

“The problem with larger pellets is even when they have been soaked to moisten and make them sticky, you are left with air gaps between the larger individual pellets once they are loaded into the cone, you uses micro pellets as well as larger ones in his loosefeed mix. These are used as ‘gap-fillers’, but you still have larger items in the loosefeed to hold the bigger fi  sh in your swim. I prepare my loosefeed in a 70:15:15 ratio.

That’s 70 per cent micros, and 15 per cent each of 4mms and 6mms. You could use groundbait as a gap-filler but it tends to attract smaller fish.Make sure that his prepared pellets bind well.

By adding a tablespoon of brewer’s yeast to the moistened pellet mixture, i am able to create a mixture that is extremely sticky. More importantly, though, it produces a potent smell and flavour cloud in the water which will pull fish in from the surrounding area.

“Yeast has been used as an ingredient in boilies for many years because it is a product carp adore. If the pellets aren’t sticky enough with one spoonful, simply add a bit more until you get the desired fi  nal product.

Loading and Fishing the Cone

To load the cone, you can squeezes his pellet combo into the cone’s hopper. The baiting needle is then pushed through the cone from the thin end. This enables him to pull the hooklink back through the cone, so that the hookbait rests against the wide end. Doing it this way ensures that when the cone is cast the thin end travels first, making the presentation much more aerodynamic.

I always has a second cone loaded and ready to go. This means i just needs to unclip one hooklink and replace it with the next, already cone-loaded. To fish it, i recommends casting a comfortable distance, all the while aiming at a permanent far-bank marker.

The cone can be used to fi  sh one spot or as an opportunistic tool. That is the beauty of it over, say, the Method. Once the cone is in the water, I look to cast around every 10 minutes just to freshen the swim. I will extend this to 15 or even 20 minutes in the depths of winter.

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Gear Guide Tackle - New Gear that Will Help You for Fishing

Gear Guide Tackle - We take a look at the new gear that will help you put more and bigger fish on the bank. Here a list equipments we recomendation for your fishing

JRC COCOON LANDING NET

 

Using a stiff carbon composite handle for rigidity when netting, along with a neat quick-release spreader block, the Cocoon landing net has some unique features.

Firstly, the folding stainless-steel spreader block that holds the net solid in place thanks to its unique divider allows the net to be broken down by simply releasing tension on the net arms and pushing the divider out of the way. Another great addition is the magnetic mesh retainer system. Unlike clip retainers that can often take quite a bit of force to release, the magnet will release without fail and the fish is engulfed. The result is a net that will be easy to move around during netting, yet will have ample room for a netted fish.

With EVA foam fitted on the net arms to maintain buoyancy and an easy-grip shrink-wrap handle it’s an impressive net for the price.

NASH SLAPHEAD INDICATOR RANGE

 

Having been in the Nash range for years the Slapheads need no introduction with old-school anglers. More recently Nash went back to the drawing board to improve on this great indication concept.

Available in white PTFE or the stealthy looking black, the Slapheads feature an integrated magnetic clip that safely secures your line but will quickly disengage when the rod is picked up. The magnet eradicates the need to adjust the clips, meaning tha the Slapheads can be used with the everything from the thickest of fluorocarbon main lines to the thinnest of braids without any reduction in tension.

Available in sizes ranging from 6g for slack-line work all the way to 40g for extreme range work, there is a version for every carp angling discipline. Additional drag weights are available too if yo want to go heavier.

The system is fully customisable with both chains and strong arms available. This complete indication system is interchangeab based on your preference. Well worth checking out if you love trying new indicators.

STILLWATER BPX REEL

 

Many anglers want to get out on the bank without spending lots of money to do so. The BPX free-spool gives you that option. Featuring the same ball bearing and performance as the BPX compact with the included free-spool feature, the reel performs brilliantly as a fishing reel or even as a marker reel.

With simple drag features and a cushioning line clip it represents great value for money.

WYCHWOOD 201 SERIES CARP RODS

 

With both the cork-handled C201 and Duplon D201, the 201 series are stylish yet still shouldn’t be sniffed at for performance. Despite their affordable price tag they are impressive rods.

Neat fixtures and fittings include a line clip and 50mm ringing orientation coupled with the multi layer technology that gives the blank more power yet maintains its playing action. Used by the likes of Jon Macallister and Nigel Sharp, who demand reliable gear for their big-fish angling, it’s clear that they more than stand up for the job.
 
Wychwood has also got a lifetime warranty policy on the 201 range, meaning that in the unlikely event they are damaged they will be replaced.

PROLOGIC STERI-7 FISH CARE ANTISEPTIC SPRAY

 

Utilising the latest in fish care technology the team at Prologic formulated a liquid that performs brilliantly as an antiseptic. Tested against well-known fish pathogens it aids in the healing process of fish, while also providing protection against aquatic diseases.

The spray is easy to use. Simply apply it to the fi sh’s wound in its body or mouth, then leave it for 15 seconds before returning the fish. It will create a barrier that prevents infections. A must for all self-respecting carp anglers.

SHIMANO TX COMPACT ROD

 

A four-piece carp rod is the ideal travel rod or makes the perfect rod for anglers going travelling on the Continent. Like the rest of the Tribal range the rods come in three diff ering test curves, from 2.75lb to 3.5lb with 50mm butt rings in the  two top test curves.

With stylish graphics and lightweight single-leg rings on the tip sections this makes the  rod light, which is much easier when casting. A great rod for anglers wanting to save space.

RIDGEMONKEY BAIT SPOONS

 

Whether it be mixing bait, or applying it to a margin spot, baiting spoons come handy in your fishing. These ones from Ridgemonkey do just the job. Using rigid heavy-duty plastic these stiff bait spoons can be used to apply bait to an area within throwing distance, or loading up your Spomb before casting out.

There are two colours available – white and green – with an ‘air’ version that features drainage holes for using with mixes containing a lot of liquid.

TASKA 13.9 PRO EDITION ADJUSTABLE  2-ROD BUZZ BARS

 

Designed and developed in the UK to Team Taska’s exacting standards the new stainless features neat adjustable collars that allow you to customise the width of your buzz bars to your preference. Adorned with discreet red nuances of the Taska brand, the chunky feel gives them a rock-solid appearance when set up. A full range of the new stainless  products complement these buzz bars with matching banksticks and stabilisers to allow you to fully  customise your setup.

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Stalking Carp Fishing - Best Equipments for Stalking This Summer

Stalking Carp Fishing Essentials

Stalking Carp Fishing - We take a look at the must-haves for stalk ing this summmer, we take a look at the tackle that will give you the stealth advantage. Here a list equipments recomendation for stalking fishing

SUNGLASSES

If you can’t find the fish all the rest of the gear is redundant… fact. A good pair of polarising sunglasses, like the Fortis Wraps, is the perfect answer. Even things like positioning rigs in shallow clear water will be done with ease thanks to a pair of polarising glasses.

STORAGE

A lightweight rucksack is great for storing your essential tackle items when travelling long distances. The Aqua small rucksack fits the bill perfectly.

ROD

A short, powerful stalking rod like the Wychwood Extricator is ideal for fitting in tight spots and a must for close-quarters fishing. A through action will reduce hook-pulls yet ensure there is power in reserve to coax fish away from snaggy areas.

REEL

The ultra-cult Daiwa SS2600 reel is ideal for its lightweight nature and smooth clutch. Whether it be for floater fishing or close- quarters angling this reel balances perfectly with a short stalking rod.

FEED

Particles are always great for getting fish feeding on small spots in the edge. These from Nash are ideal.

HOOK BAIT

A dull hook bait can often catch out a wary fish; these neat Krill wafters from Sticky blend into the rest of the food items yet pump out attraction. They complement small pellets perfectly. A great stalking hook bait.

CLOTHING

A dark hoodie and joggers keep you from being spotted by any wary margin feeders. With many spots being in awkward areas, long trousers can be good to prevent cuts from foliage.

CARP CARE

A big part of carp fishing is looking after your quarry when you catch it, no matter what type of fishing you are doing. But a good unhooking mat doesn’t have to be huge. The Scope flat mat from Nash packs down to nothing and lends itself perfectly to being clipped onto a small rucksack for when it’s needed.

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Finding Good Fishing Spots Near Me - 9 Answer Success It On the Lake Bed

Finding Good Fishing Spots Near Me- The attributes success to finding the best spots to fish on the lake bed. Here is how i am so consistently to catch big carp on a regular basis.

What is the process you go through when finding a spot ?

For me it’s about fishing areas where the fish are frequenting. Normally I have seen them showing in this area, so it makes sense to try and find a feeding area in their vicinity. I might build up a picture of where the fish spend their time the most over the course of several sessions and events to really dial in where I think I will most likely get bites from.

I start off with a normal tournament-style lead. This is the ideal tool when you want to keep resistance to a minimum to maximise feel. If the area is clogged with weed then I need to ensure that I can feel the subtlest areas. The bulk of a marker float will also catch up on the weed and make it harder for you to find a spot.

TOOLS OF THE TRADE
I starts all feature finding with a bare tournament style lead. Once i am found a
smooth area, i works it with the breakaway lead. If it is clear, he will cast around the
spots to deduce the depth around the swim.

Two scenarios will emerge from your initial plumbing. Number one is the lake will be completely clear and you could present on most of the lake bed with no discernable features. At this point your bait becomes the feature, so it’s down to your accuracy with the bait to create a tight area in which to get bites from.

The second scenario is when there is an abundance of weed.

What do you do when there’s a lot of weed ?

I will always aim to find a clear spot, no matter how big or small. Sometimes it will take me just a few casts and others it will take me an hour, but once I have found a fishable area I can log it for all my future sessions.

So what’s the next step once you have found a spot with a bare lead ?

I switch to a breakaway lead. This shows you how clean the spot really is. A lot of the time you will think you have found a really nice clear spot with a bare lead, but you run over it with the breakaway lead and it will be not as clear as you first thought. This will involve another few exploratory casts with the bare lead to try and find something more suitable.

Does the spot have to be as clear as possible ?

I would rather it were completely clean yes, namely for rig presentation and baiting. You don’t want your bait hanging up in the weed away from your rigs. Sometimes it can’t be done, but a light covering is still fishable. If an area of light weed is my only option, then I will commit some bait to it in a bid to getting the fish to clear it for me.

Always ensure his middle rod is the one getting the most bites

Once you have found a spot you are happy to fish on, what next ?

I will cast to its boundaries and see how far I can go left and right and how much further the spot extends back. I always note all of this down in my book for future reference. I then get the marker out and cast around area. I am looking to see the depth variation.

It might be that the spot is only a rod length wide but with huge depth variations that would make it awkward to fish. I will measure the depth all the way along the spot to make sure I know exactly what I am fishing over. To my mind, an even-depth spot that is surrounded by weed but clear on the lake bed is perfect.

So even if the spot is half a rod length wide will you try and fit three rods in it ?

Yes. I will always fish the rigs together no matter how tight the spot is. It depends on the venue, but my aim is to fish three rods on the spot and put all my bait on the best spot possible, as opposed to putting a kilo of bait on three areas in one swim. I also prefer to have three rigs on one area to maximise my chance of a pick-up.

If a rig tangles or gets picked up and spat out, I still have two other chances.

Do you find spots within the main spot that you will get more bites off ?

I have had sessions where the right-hand rod gets all the bites and you can’t seem to get the others rocking. I then put my left-hand rod to the right of the rod that is getting all the bites. I aim to have my middle rod getting the most bites. Quite often, a little rejig of the rods will get you multiple bites from the area.

Do you have any instances of fish preferring to feed in a certain area on the spot ?

I found a gravel bar on Wraysbury from Peg 10. It was nice and clear and the fish were regularly in the area. I nicked a couple of bites from it, but was convinced that it could do more. I shot a feature with Rob Hughes, where he dives a spot after it has been baited to see how my spot-finding skills fared.

I was fishing on the edge of the gravel where it met the silt. Rob found that the bait on the gravel had not been eaten and the bait on the silt had been devoured. There was a discernable line between the two. From then on I wrapped the rods a couple of feet further so that they landed in the silt. I had nine fish in less than 24 hours. The difference that two feet made was huge to my catch rate.

I learnt that the fish on Wraysbury prefer to feed on silt. The gravel is really big on there, making it hard for the fish to extract their food. It’s interesting to see how the fish prefer to feed on different substrates in different lakes.

Another reason to suggest the Wraysbury carp liked to feed in the silt was their soft mouths. Gravel-feeding carp seemed have harder mouths from years of feeding on the hard lake bed. The gravel at Linear Fisheries is a lot smaller and they predominantly like to feed on these hard gravel areas.

It’s something that I am always mindful of when fishing lakes and I always consider these points when choosing a spot to fish. You have to analyse everything in carp fishing. Even when you are catching you need to question the key points as to why it is working.

Would you ever stage your rods across a spot at different distances ?

I fish them in a line at exactly the same distance. I like the fish to feed freely at the back of the spot without being disturbed. They will then feed up to the rigs and I have less chance of them hitting my lines when they are feeding, which naturally puts them on edge.

Once finds an area of choice, try investigates it further with a breakaway lead.
The prongs pick up the weed on the spot and give a real picture of what’s on the lake bed.

Once you have found areas will you continue to monitor them through the course of a season ?

It’s always good to keep a record of spots so that you can drop in and fish them when the fish are there. You can also keep an eye on spots and see if they have been fed on recently.

There was a spot on Linch Hill’s Christchurch Lake in The Padded Cell swim. On certain sessions it would do big hits of fish, before having lean periods of inactivity. As this happened you would see the spot go from a hard area to growing over in silkweed. After a few weeks fallow you could drop a rig on there and all of a sudden it went from a weed-covered area to a hard spot. At this point it would be worth putting rods on and fishing.

Will you revisit spots from a previous year ?

If they are spots that I have caught from, yes. Providing they aren’t too weeded over, I will definitely try and reclaim an area that used to be a great feeding spot.

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Pellets Size Ideas in Winter Fishing

Visit any commercial in winter and you’ll see micro pellets on nearly every side tray. It’s almost the default tactic for catching carp at this time of year. But is it really the best way ? Over the last 18 months I’ve started to play around with pellets of different sizes and was surprised just how many times I caught bigger fish on bigger baits.

Micros certainly have their place and I’ll always feed them on at least one swim. However, I’ve found that the size of fish you tempt on them is smaller than if you fish a bigger pellet, even though they put you in a catch-22 situation

Yes, the fish are bigger but you wait longer for bites. To overcome this I feed three different sized pellets on three different swims, so there’s the potential to catch fish of every size in your peg. It’s a matter of timing.

Perhaps as much as 75% of your net will still be caught over micros, but the remaining 25% will be a much bigger stamp, and these can really make the difference in winter between framing and finishing just short.

Time Your Feeding

The great thing about this method is that you can sacrifice a little time on your banker line – the micro pellet swim – because you know the rewards will be far greater on the other lines, but it remains a matter of timing.

The first half the match is what I consider to be the preparation time when I’ll get my head down and catch what I can over micros. I will also prime two other swims. One with 4mm pellets, usually just down the bank from my micro pellet swim, and another with hard 6mm pellets, usually at the bottom of the far shelf in deeper water where the bigger fish tend to patrol.

I’ve found that bigger fish rarely feed early in the match and it’s quite often only during the last hour that they really show.



For the hour and a half after the midway point of the match I’ll try my 4mm pellet swim every 15 minutes, hoping to pick up a couple of better fish every time I drop on it. It’s important not to sit on this swim and exhaust it. You need to be strict because the bigger fish can soon spook easily. As soon as I catch a couple of fish I go straight back on to my banker line and continue to put smaller fish in the net.

The final hour is make or break time. This is when the 6mm swim comes into play. Having fed this for most of the match the fish should’ve really gained confidence – if you’re going to catch from here you will know within 5-10 minutes.

It’s very rare for this swim not to produce anything and the fish it does produce are usually very good. If it delivers, you’re flying and in an ideal world you’ll be going into the last hour with three swims that are producing fish. Again, it’s a case of taking quick fish off the swims with bigger baits and then topping up with smaller fish.

Occasionally you can ditch the micro pellets swim in this last hour and just switch between 4mm and 6mm pellets, perhaps catching 50% of your final weight in the last hour. Generally, though, it’s best to use all three swims to continue to put fish in the net.

The element of risk is that the longer you wait for a bite on a bigger bait the more chance there is of another angler sneaking in front. But success favours the brave and it’s certainly true with this method.

Putting Theory Into Practice

I’ve plumbed up and found a flat area on the far shelf around 18 inches off the bank and this is where I’ll feed my micros. I’ve found the same depth around 2m to the left, again towards the far bank and this is where I’ll feed the 4mm pellets.

I’ve been very careful plumbing my third swim in the deeper water. It’s important to look for any variation in depth as the fish will often create areas of slightly deeper water where they regularly feed. It’s deeper because fish move the silt and therefore the bottom is harder. This is the perfect spot to feed the 6mm pellets.

Rigs with a Little Finesse

My rigs are a pretty standard affair but it’s winter, so even with bigger baits you still need a little finesse. With this in mind my mainline is 0.14mm Power Micron but to a more delicate 0.10mm hooklength on all rigs.

For fishing across I’m using a O.4g Matrix Carp Series 3 shotted with a strung bulk of No.9s. I also have three No.9s just above my float to help control the float in the wind.

I have two identical rigs set up for the far swim where the hook for fishing a small micro expander over micro pellets is a size 18 Silver Bagger. On my duplicate rig I have a size 18 Carp bander with a small bait band to fish a hard 4mm pellet.

For fishing the deeper swim I’m using the same hook and line combo that I use for the 4mm pellets. However, due to the size and weight of the 6mm pellet I’m using a 0.4g Carp Series 1 float with a thicker, more buoyant, tip. This is shotted with a bulk just above the hooklength to keep the rig stable.

Build Up the Feed

I like to build up all my swims slowly so I simply introduce the same amount at the start that I’ll be feeding throughout the day. I’ll put in just 3-4 6mm pellets on my deeper line by hand every 5-10 minutes depending how hard it’s fishing, and around 8-10 4mm pellets every 10 minutes on the far line.

How you feed is personal choice. You can use a catapult but I find it’s better to feed via a pole pot. I’m not into counting out micro pellets! On this swim I feed either a small pinch if it’s really hard and a bigger pinch when the fish are feeding normally – not an exact science but it works for me.

The Match-Minded Session

I always start on the micro pellet swim that’s given my full attention for the fi  rst half of the match. I’ve tried various 4mm expanders but I’ve now settled on the Micro expanders from Dynamite Baits. Although bigger than a micro pellet they’re smaller than a 4mm and I seem to get more bites on them.

It takes around 20 minutes to get an indication but I’m soon into my first fish, a small mirror, typical of what I’d expect on smaller baits. The cold weather and frost last night is making things difficult but, by lifting and dropping my rig, I am managing to keep a few bites coming. 

After a couple of hours I’m keen to try the 4mm pellet swim. Judging by the response on the micros I’m not expecting lots of fi sh but I’m interested to see their size. Laying in my 4mm pellet and dropping a few over the top, I almost feel nervous!

Luckily the float dips before slipping from sight and a sharp lift of the pole is met by resistance and several feet of elastic is ripped from the pole as an angry carp runs down the bank. Keeping the pole low I soon have the fish under control, a chunky 2lb mirror, the biggest fish of the day so far.

With the fishing being so hard today I’m going to go back on to my micro pellet line – I just don’t feel that I can push any swim too hard, especially one that will hopefully provide bonus fish. This works perfectly and three more times I drop on the 4mm pellet swim and each time I catch a quality fish.



With four hours gone I decide to try thedeeper swim. A banded 6mm pellet is lowered in and then it’s a waiting game. Eight minutes pass and I’m just starting to think it’s not going to happen when the float darts under and I’m into a good fish and I wonder if the 0.10mm hooklength will hold.

Thankfully, the elastic works it magic cushioning every lunge and a stunning mirror is soon in the landing net.

I spend the next 40 minutes switching lines and manage a few more fish on both far lines before banking another nice mirror on a 6mm pellet before calling time on the session. It’s not been easy but, had it been a match, I feel like I would’ve been in with a shout judging by what others have caught.

On a venue like this with a good stock of small carp, it’s picking up those bigger fish that can make a difference. Micros pellets may still be the number one choice for winter but will micros make you a match winner? Not always, so be prepared to change!

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