These days, tackle shop shelves creak under the weight of diferent shapes, sizes and types of feeder that guarantee almost any angler can expect to cast and catch.
Flatbed Methods, pellet, cage,
blockend and open-end are the main types you will find, but having so much
choice is not always a good thing. Especially if you are a newcomer to the
sport. But if you learn the basics of what each diferent feeder does it makes
selection choice a lot easier.
Feeder advantages
In this era of poles, the feeder
often ends up playing second fiddle. But it does ofer a number of distinct
benefits. Firstly, if the fish are beyond pole/waggler range, as they often are
early season on big lakes, it enables you to cast a hookbait to where the fish
are. Also, unlike float fishing, you very rarely foul-hook fish on the feeder.
If you see fish fizzing but are struggling to get a bite, even on the pole line, a small feeder flicked over the top will often see you catching those previously uncatchable fish, It’s a little trick that can make a massive diference to the day.
If the weather is poor, very
windy for example, the feeder creates a much better presentation. Finally, as
it needs packing with bait prior to casting, it forces you to loosefeed, so you
top up the swim with every cast.
The blockend (maggot) feeder
Usually the preserve of the river
angler, maggot feeders are making a comeback on stillwaters.
In the winter, a maggot feeder is
ideal. They love maggots, but to catch, you also need to feed maggots. A maggot
feeder is the best way to do this. The one place I find it works very well is on
snake lakes that are wider than you can fish with a pole. Maggot feeders can
create small-fish problems in the warmer months, but during winter and early
season, they are excellent.
Cage or open-ended feeder ?
When fishing groundbait, knowing
whether to pick a cage or open-end feeder can be confusing. They look fairly
similar so does it even matter ?
The only diference between these
two types is how quickly they are able to release their Payloads, If I am
looking to create a cloud in the water, with a bit of bait coming out
on-the-drop to spread a carpet of feed, I’ll opt for a cage. Conversely, if I
want to create a tighter patch of loosefeed, I use an open-end, that is open at
one end only.
When using chopped worm or other particles, he often tapes up the holes around the body of the feeder to create a cylinder. This acts like a baitdropper, only releasing its payload once on the lakebed. To eat, the fish have to come to the feeder itself, so they are easier to catch because the hookbait is close by.
One trick I use is to pack a
taped-up feeder with compacted, neat crumb, this produces plenty of attraction
with nothing to eat but the hookbait. It’s a great edge that I have kept up my
sleeve for many years now.”
To set up his groundbait feeders,
a snaplink swivel on to the mainline, followed by a very small bead, then ties
a couple of loops in the end to form a boom to help prevent the hooklink
tangling. It is also important that the bead can’t slip over the loop knots.
I use 5lb-6lb mainline with
hooklinks of 3lb-4lb (depending on the target species) and starting around 12
inches long.
The modern pellet feeder
Pellet feeders have been around
for a decade or so and have enjoyed storming success. They are very easy to
load, catch well in both open water and up to features, such as islands, and
the way they are designed means the fish can only get to the loosefeed from one
direction.
This means that they are forced
to come into contact with the hookbait if they want to eat the loosefeed, which
makes these feeders highly efective fish-catchers.
The only downside is that you
must use pellets in them because pure groundbait will clog the feeder, although
Des tops of his pellet payload with a smear of crumb to create a cloud in the
water to produce much quicker bites on certain days.
I recommend a rod of 10ft-11ft,
8lb mainline and a 4in hooklink. A Preston Innovations PR36 hook is perfect for
side-hooking or hair-rigging baits. Feeder size and weight depends on the range
you are looking to fish and whether the feed area is flat or sloped. Further out
or more sloped, the heavier you use.
“If you only use one feeder, make sure it’s a Method with a mould”
The Method
Unarguably one of the greatest
inventions to grace the banks, the Method feeder has come a long way since its
conception in the 1990s. Previously rock-hard cricket balls of particle-laced
groundbait have now given way to the flatbed feeder, which can be fished with
moist micro pellets, fine groundbait or a mix of both.
These days you want the payload to melt as soon as the feeder hits the deck. I prefer either Sonubaits Sticky Method pellets or Match Method Mix groundbait. It is important that the groundbait is not made too wet because it clogs and doesn’t break down well in the swim.”
Similar to the pellet feeder, i
adopt a similar set-up for the Method with Preston Innovations 8lb Power Max
for the mainline and either 0.17mm (6lb 12oz) or 0.19mm (7lb 6oz) Powerline for
the 4in hooklink. Again, the hook is a PR36.
“For hookbaits, I use all sorts.
Meat, dyed with the new Sonubaits Larva, Band ’Ums, pellets, boilies or even
dead maggots. Every day is diferent with what they want on the hook.” Every
feeder difers slightly, making it better for certain species, certain
conditions and certain venues. Understanding why you have made your choice will
see you catching so much more.
0 comments:
Post a Comment