Stalking Carp Fishing - Best Equipments for Stalking This Summer

Stalking Carp Fishing Essentials

Stalking Carp Fishing - We take a look at the must-haves for stalk ing this summmer, we take a look at the tackle that will give you the stealth advantage. Here a list equipments recomendation for stalking fishing

SUNGLASSES

If you can’t find the fish all the rest of the gear is redundant… fact. A good pair of polarising sunglasses, like the Fortis Wraps, is the perfect answer. Even things like positioning rigs in shallow clear water will be done with ease thanks to a pair of polarising glasses.

STORAGE

A lightweight rucksack is great for storing your essential tackle items when travelling long distances. The Aqua small rucksack fits the bill perfectly.

ROD

A short, powerful stalking rod like the Wychwood Extricator is ideal for fitting in tight spots and a must for close-quarters fishing. A through action will reduce hook-pulls yet ensure there is power in reserve to coax fish away from snaggy areas.

REEL

The ultra-cult Daiwa SS2600 reel is ideal for its lightweight nature and smooth clutch. Whether it be for floater fishing or close- quarters angling this reel balances perfectly with a short stalking rod.

FEED

Particles are always great for getting fish feeding on small spots in the edge. These from Nash are ideal.

HOOK BAIT

A dull hook bait can often catch out a wary fish; these neat Krill wafters from Sticky blend into the rest of the food items yet pump out attraction. They complement small pellets perfectly. A great stalking hook bait.

CLOTHING

A dark hoodie and joggers keep you from being spotted by any wary margin feeders. With many spots being in awkward areas, long trousers can be good to prevent cuts from foliage.

CARP CARE

A big part of carp fishing is looking after your quarry when you catch it, no matter what type of fishing you are doing. But a good unhooking mat doesn’t have to be huge. The Scope flat mat from Nash packs down to nothing and lends itself perfectly to being clipped onto a small rucksack for when it’s needed.

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How Fish Cope With Floods ?

When we see TV reports of land and communities devastated by flooding it is often hard to believe that anything can survive the churning maelstrom that is a flooded river. Yet, coarse fish, even juveniles, can survive even the worst flood events thanks to their survival instinct.



Floods are a natural phenomenon that actually help to sculpture our rivers and replenish the land surrounding them. The churning water can shift millions of tons of silt, gravel and even boulders in a river, creating new fast-flowing, shallow riles interspersed by deeper pools and features such as undercut banks, bends and shallow margins. Along the banks of a river the silt deposited during high water levels helps to keep the land fertile by replenishing the nutrients essential for plants.

A natural river and the land surrounding it form a complex landscape that means that the water will spread outwards almostas quickly as the level rises. The water in the main channel will flow faster and may become inhospitable, especially for young fish but, as the level rises, new slow-flowing refuges are formed as margins flood.

As the level of a river rises and the flow increases, the natural instinct of fish is to find refuge. This leads them to move towards the margins, where the flow is usually slower. This is especially true if the margins are filled with vegetation that will reduce flow and raise the water level, causing the river to rise and widen.



The level of a flooded river may rise several metres and in a natural channel this can lead to the river expanding massively. The flood plain is often ten times the width of the river under normal flows, and with the shallow angle of the banks the flood plain will quickly fill up giving the fish further refuge. In fact, in a natural river there may actually be more habitat available for fish during times of flood than when the river is at a normal level. As the water level slowly recedes the fish can return to the main river channel without becoming trapped.

Some species make use of the flooded margins to move around and for spawning. Species such as tench and crucian carp naturally dwell in the small pools that line the flood plain of a river. During floods these pools are replenished with fresh water and connected to the main river, enabling the fish to spread out.

Species such as pike and carp may use periods of high river level in the spring to gain access to spawning sites alongside the main river. Here their tiny eggs and fry will be safe from most of their predators. The tiny fish make their way back to the river as the water level falls slowly in late spring.

How fish manage to find their way in flooded rivers is still very much open to conjecture. What we do know is that often the water close to the riverbed can be much clearer than it appears at the surface.
Sight is not the only sense that fish use to find their way around and so a combination of the lateral line, the senses of touch and perhaps also smell come into play to help the fish navigate in poor conditions.

In a natural river there is always some habitat for even young fish, but in our highly managed waterways this is often not the case. As a consequence of trying to control floods, our rivers have often been straightened and sometimes dredged to enable them to carry more water out to sea faster. Much of the flood plain has been lost as the banks have been built up so that the adjacent land is not flooded. Instead of the river rising slowly and widening, many modern rivers just increase in level with a rapidly increasing current speed. In extreme cases this can lead to a massive reduction in the amount of habitat suitable for fish and even lead to young fish being washed downstream, perhaps eventually out to sea, where they will not survive. Weed removal can make this situation even worse, as the slow flowing refuges among the beds of plants are removed.

Flooding in heavily-managed rivers can be even worse in extreme cases when the banks are finally overtopped. Now the water runs out across the land, and often the fish will follow suit. As the level recedes
fish can become trapped on the wrong side of the flood banks and either are left stranded or are easy prey to predators.

Fortunately, fish populations are extremely resilient and we can mitigate some of the worst efects of floods in even the most highly managed rivers by incorporating some simple refuges. Backwaters, dykes and marinas can all make brilliant habitats for fish during floods and often the smaller fish will be in incredible densities in these refuges.

Careful cutting of the marginal plants can also create useful safe zones when the water level is high. Re-wilding, the return of simplified managed environments to their more complex semi-natural state, is another management practice that is growing in popularity and that can benefit the whole ecosystem, not just the fish.

We are slowly learning by our mistakes and with more frequent flood events on the horizon we can make sure our fish populations remain safe.

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What are The Best Baits to Use for Big Carp During the Winter ?

THE BIG QUESTION : What are the best baits to use for big carp during the winter?

1) SWEETCORN

Match anglers consider it to be one of the best witer baits and carp anglers include it in their spod mixer. But for some reason very few fish it on the hook.



Carp have seen and, more importantly, been caught on boilies all their lives. By just using corn, on both the hook and as loosefeed, the fish have no reason to fear it. The other major advantage of corn  is that you are able to feed loads of it, creating a really big, bright eye-cacthing particle bed in the swim without the fear of filling up the fish.

Corn can be used with confidence straight from the tin or you can flavour it with pretty much anything want.

2) HI-VIZ POP-UPS

The appeal of a bright hookbait can often be too much for a carp to resist, even on days when they aren’t feeding hard. I’d recommend starting with a different  coloured hookbait on each rod and then, if one starts producing the most bites, you can switch all three rods to the same colour.



Yellow, pink and white baits are all great at this time of year but, for whatever reason, carp may prefer yellow one day and white the next.

During the winter months I favour fruity flavours such as the Sticky Signature pop-ups and I always give these a coating in the matching flavour spray.

3) ZIG RIGS

During the winter, carp will shoal up and are likely to stay in the more comfortable areas of the lake where they feel content for longer.



Zig rigs are a great way of locating where the fish are by varying the depth at which the rig sits, until you fi nd where in the water column the fish are laying up.

I prefer two small pieces of foam on a short hair–one light and one dark. With the lighter colour on top, the foam will always stand out against the background whether the carp is looking up at it towards the sky, or down on it towards the lakebed.

4) MAGGOTS

Even the most lethargic cold-water carp will find a bed of maggots hard to resist and there are loads of different ways you can fish them to improve your chances of catching.



A big bunch of maggots is about as simple as it gets, but every year loads of carp fall victim to this set-up. Thread 15-20 maggots on to a length of bait floss with a needle and tie them into a tight ball. The movement they create will tempt most carp while nuisance fish will such a dense bait ball hard to deal with.

If you want to add an element of buoyancy to your hookbait simply thread a few artificial maggots on to the bait floss as well.

This can be cast out in conjunction with a mesh PVA bag filled with maggots or a Spombed bed of freebies.

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Finding Good Fishing Spots Near Me - 9 Answer Success It On the Lake Bed

Finding Good Fishing Spots Near Me- The attributes success to finding the best spots to fish on the lake bed. Here is how i am so consistently to catch big carp on a regular basis.

What is the process you go through when finding a spot ?

For me it’s about fishing areas where the fish are frequenting. Normally I have seen them showing in this area, so it makes sense to try and find a feeding area in their vicinity. I might build up a picture of where the fish spend their time the most over the course of several sessions and events to really dial in where I think I will most likely get bites from.

I start off with a normal tournament-style lead. This is the ideal tool when you want to keep resistance to a minimum to maximise feel. If the area is clogged with weed then I need to ensure that I can feel the subtlest areas. The bulk of a marker float will also catch up on the weed and make it harder for you to find a spot.

TOOLS OF THE TRADE
I starts all feature finding with a bare tournament style lead. Once i am found a
smooth area, i works it with the breakaway lead. If it is clear, he will cast around the
spots to deduce the depth around the swim.

Two scenarios will emerge from your initial plumbing. Number one is the lake will be completely clear and you could present on most of the lake bed with no discernable features. At this point your bait becomes the feature, so it’s down to your accuracy with the bait to create a tight area in which to get bites from.

The second scenario is when there is an abundance of weed.

What do you do when there’s a lot of weed ?

I will always aim to find a clear spot, no matter how big or small. Sometimes it will take me just a few casts and others it will take me an hour, but once I have found a fishable area I can log it for all my future sessions.

So what’s the next step once you have found a spot with a bare lead ?

I switch to a breakaway lead. This shows you how clean the spot really is. A lot of the time you will think you have found a really nice clear spot with a bare lead, but you run over it with the breakaway lead and it will be not as clear as you first thought. This will involve another few exploratory casts with the bare lead to try and find something more suitable.

Does the spot have to be as clear as possible ?

I would rather it were completely clean yes, namely for rig presentation and baiting. You don’t want your bait hanging up in the weed away from your rigs. Sometimes it can’t be done, but a light covering is still fishable. If an area of light weed is my only option, then I will commit some bait to it in a bid to getting the fish to clear it for me.

Always ensure his middle rod is the one getting the most bites

Once you have found a spot you are happy to fish on, what next ?

I will cast to its boundaries and see how far I can go left and right and how much further the spot extends back. I always note all of this down in my book for future reference. I then get the marker out and cast around area. I am looking to see the depth variation.

It might be that the spot is only a rod length wide but with huge depth variations that would make it awkward to fish. I will measure the depth all the way along the spot to make sure I know exactly what I am fishing over. To my mind, an even-depth spot that is surrounded by weed but clear on the lake bed is perfect.

So even if the spot is half a rod length wide will you try and fit three rods in it ?

Yes. I will always fish the rigs together no matter how tight the spot is. It depends on the venue, but my aim is to fish three rods on the spot and put all my bait on the best spot possible, as opposed to putting a kilo of bait on three areas in one swim. I also prefer to have three rigs on one area to maximise my chance of a pick-up.

If a rig tangles or gets picked up and spat out, I still have two other chances.

Do you find spots within the main spot that you will get more bites off ?

I have had sessions where the right-hand rod gets all the bites and you can’t seem to get the others rocking. I then put my left-hand rod to the right of the rod that is getting all the bites. I aim to have my middle rod getting the most bites. Quite often, a little rejig of the rods will get you multiple bites from the area.

Do you have any instances of fish preferring to feed in a certain area on the spot ?

I found a gravel bar on Wraysbury from Peg 10. It was nice and clear and the fish were regularly in the area. I nicked a couple of bites from it, but was convinced that it could do more. I shot a feature with Rob Hughes, where he dives a spot after it has been baited to see how my spot-finding skills fared.

I was fishing on the edge of the gravel where it met the silt. Rob found that the bait on the gravel had not been eaten and the bait on the silt had been devoured. There was a discernable line between the two. From then on I wrapped the rods a couple of feet further so that they landed in the silt. I had nine fish in less than 24 hours. The difference that two feet made was huge to my catch rate.

I learnt that the fish on Wraysbury prefer to feed on silt. The gravel is really big on there, making it hard for the fish to extract their food. It’s interesting to see how the fish prefer to feed on different substrates in different lakes.

Another reason to suggest the Wraysbury carp liked to feed in the silt was their soft mouths. Gravel-feeding carp seemed have harder mouths from years of feeding on the hard lake bed. The gravel at Linear Fisheries is a lot smaller and they predominantly like to feed on these hard gravel areas.

It’s something that I am always mindful of when fishing lakes and I always consider these points when choosing a spot to fish. You have to analyse everything in carp fishing. Even when you are catching you need to question the key points as to why it is working.

Would you ever stage your rods across a spot at different distances ?

I fish them in a line at exactly the same distance. I like the fish to feed freely at the back of the spot without being disturbed. They will then feed up to the rigs and I have less chance of them hitting my lines when they are feeding, which naturally puts them on edge.

Once finds an area of choice, try investigates it further with a breakaway lead.
The prongs pick up the weed on the spot and give a real picture of what’s on the lake bed.

Once you have found areas will you continue to monitor them through the course of a season ?

It’s always good to keep a record of spots so that you can drop in and fish them when the fish are there. You can also keep an eye on spots and see if they have been fed on recently.

There was a spot on Linch Hill’s Christchurch Lake in The Padded Cell swim. On certain sessions it would do big hits of fish, before having lean periods of inactivity. As this happened you would see the spot go from a hard area to growing over in silkweed. After a few weeks fallow you could drop a rig on there and all of a sudden it went from a weed-covered area to a hard spot. At this point it would be worth putting rods on and fishing.

Will you revisit spots from a previous year ?

If they are spots that I have caught from, yes. Providing they aren’t too weeded over, I will definitely try and reclaim an area that used to be a great feeding spot.

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Pellets Size Ideas in Winter Fishing

Visit any commercial in winter and you’ll see micro pellets on nearly every side tray. It’s almost the default tactic for catching carp at this time of year. But is it really the best way ? Over the last 18 months I’ve started to play around with pellets of different sizes and was surprised just how many times I caught bigger fish on bigger baits.

Micros certainly have their place and I’ll always feed them on at least one swim. However, I’ve found that the size of fish you tempt on them is smaller than if you fish a bigger pellet, even though they put you in a catch-22 situation

Yes, the fish are bigger but you wait longer for bites. To overcome this I feed three different sized pellets on three different swims, so there’s the potential to catch fish of every size in your peg. It’s a matter of timing.

Perhaps as much as 75% of your net will still be caught over micros, but the remaining 25% will be a much bigger stamp, and these can really make the difference in winter between framing and finishing just short.

Time Your Feeding

The great thing about this method is that you can sacrifice a little time on your banker line – the micro pellet swim – because you know the rewards will be far greater on the other lines, but it remains a matter of timing.

The first half the match is what I consider to be the preparation time when I’ll get my head down and catch what I can over micros. I will also prime two other swims. One with 4mm pellets, usually just down the bank from my micro pellet swim, and another with hard 6mm pellets, usually at the bottom of the far shelf in deeper water where the bigger fish tend to patrol.

I’ve found that bigger fish rarely feed early in the match and it’s quite often only during the last hour that they really show.



For the hour and a half after the midway point of the match I’ll try my 4mm pellet swim every 15 minutes, hoping to pick up a couple of better fish every time I drop on it. It’s important not to sit on this swim and exhaust it. You need to be strict because the bigger fish can soon spook easily. As soon as I catch a couple of fish I go straight back on to my banker line and continue to put smaller fish in the net.

The final hour is make or break time. This is when the 6mm swim comes into play. Having fed this for most of the match the fish should’ve really gained confidence – if you’re going to catch from here you will know within 5-10 minutes.

It’s very rare for this swim not to produce anything and the fish it does produce are usually very good. If it delivers, you’re flying and in an ideal world you’ll be going into the last hour with three swims that are producing fish. Again, it’s a case of taking quick fish off the swims with bigger baits and then topping up with smaller fish.

Occasionally you can ditch the micro pellets swim in this last hour and just switch between 4mm and 6mm pellets, perhaps catching 50% of your final weight in the last hour. Generally, though, it’s best to use all three swims to continue to put fish in the net.

The element of risk is that the longer you wait for a bite on a bigger bait the more chance there is of another angler sneaking in front. But success favours the brave and it’s certainly true with this method.

Putting Theory Into Practice

I’ve plumbed up and found a flat area on the far shelf around 18 inches off the bank and this is where I’ll feed my micros. I’ve found the same depth around 2m to the left, again towards the far bank and this is where I’ll feed the 4mm pellets.

I’ve been very careful plumbing my third swim in the deeper water. It’s important to look for any variation in depth as the fish will often create areas of slightly deeper water where they regularly feed. It’s deeper because fish move the silt and therefore the bottom is harder. This is the perfect spot to feed the 6mm pellets.

Rigs with a Little Finesse

My rigs are a pretty standard affair but it’s winter, so even with bigger baits you still need a little finesse. With this in mind my mainline is 0.14mm Power Micron but to a more delicate 0.10mm hooklength on all rigs.

For fishing across I’m using a O.4g Matrix Carp Series 3 shotted with a strung bulk of No.9s. I also have three No.9s just above my float to help control the float in the wind.

I have two identical rigs set up for the far swim where the hook for fishing a small micro expander over micro pellets is a size 18 Silver Bagger. On my duplicate rig I have a size 18 Carp bander with a small bait band to fish a hard 4mm pellet.

For fishing the deeper swim I’m using the same hook and line combo that I use for the 4mm pellets. However, due to the size and weight of the 6mm pellet I’m using a 0.4g Carp Series 1 float with a thicker, more buoyant, tip. This is shotted with a bulk just above the hooklength to keep the rig stable.

Build Up the Feed

I like to build up all my swims slowly so I simply introduce the same amount at the start that I’ll be feeding throughout the day. I’ll put in just 3-4 6mm pellets on my deeper line by hand every 5-10 minutes depending how hard it’s fishing, and around 8-10 4mm pellets every 10 minutes on the far line.

How you feed is personal choice. You can use a catapult but I find it’s better to feed via a pole pot. I’m not into counting out micro pellets! On this swim I feed either a small pinch if it’s really hard and a bigger pinch when the fish are feeding normally – not an exact science but it works for me.

The Match-Minded Session

I always start on the micro pellet swim that’s given my full attention for the fi  rst half of the match. I’ve tried various 4mm expanders but I’ve now settled on the Micro expanders from Dynamite Baits. Although bigger than a micro pellet they’re smaller than a 4mm and I seem to get more bites on them.

It takes around 20 minutes to get an indication but I’m soon into my first fish, a small mirror, typical of what I’d expect on smaller baits. The cold weather and frost last night is making things difficult but, by lifting and dropping my rig, I am managing to keep a few bites coming. 

After a couple of hours I’m keen to try the 4mm pellet swim. Judging by the response on the micros I’m not expecting lots of fi sh but I’m interested to see their size. Laying in my 4mm pellet and dropping a few over the top, I almost feel nervous!

Luckily the float dips before slipping from sight and a sharp lift of the pole is met by resistance and several feet of elastic is ripped from the pole as an angry carp runs down the bank. Keeping the pole low I soon have the fish under control, a chunky 2lb mirror, the biggest fish of the day so far.

With the fishing being so hard today I’m going to go back on to my micro pellet line – I just don’t feel that I can push any swim too hard, especially one that will hopefully provide bonus fish. This works perfectly and three more times I drop on the 4mm pellet swim and each time I catch a quality fish.



With four hours gone I decide to try thedeeper swim. A banded 6mm pellet is lowered in and then it’s a waiting game. Eight minutes pass and I’m just starting to think it’s not going to happen when the float darts under and I’m into a good fish and I wonder if the 0.10mm hooklength will hold.

Thankfully, the elastic works it magic cushioning every lunge and a stunning mirror is soon in the landing net.

I spend the next 40 minutes switching lines and manage a few more fish on both far lines before banking another nice mirror on a 6mm pellet before calling time on the session. It’s not been easy but, had it been a match, I feel like I would’ve been in with a shout judging by what others have caught.

On a venue like this with a good stock of small carp, it’s picking up those bigger fish that can make a difference. Micros pellets may still be the number one choice for winter but will micros make you a match winner? Not always, so be prepared to change!

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Stick Float Fishing - How to Master the Stick Float ?

The stick float fishing is a little more difficult to master than most other angling tactics and is therefore rarely fished by the novice. But for those that work at polishing the necessary skills, there are few more rewarding ways of putting together a bag of silverfish.

Unlike a feeder or a straight bomb, which presents a static hookbait that fish are free to inspect at their leisure, running a moving bait past them under a float forces them into decisive action.

“Bites tend to be very positive on the stick, as the feeding fish have to make a choice whether to take the bait or lose it forever in the flow"

“A block-end (maggot) feeder is excellent on rivers such as the Trent, but I reckon that fishing a stick forces them into feeding hard and generates much more competition in the shoal. The more competition there is for food, the more fish you will catch.

“The only problem is that most anglers have either never fished a stick float or are not doing it correctly. But when you do get it right, there really are few techniques more rewarding or satisfying.”

To find out more about how we fishes this superb river tactic, we met up with the Dynamite Baits Development Team member and Middy-backed expert on the banks of the Trent at East Stoke, controlled by Newark & District Piscatorial Federation.

What to Look For

As the stick float is a tactic best fished a maximum of two rodlengths out, locating a swim with a decent depth in the margins is the ideal place to start. It will also help if the water flows in a smooth glide, rather than tumbling around like in a washing machine.

“The smoother the water, the better the presentation will be, If there are lots of swirls or boils on the surface, this usually indicates an underwater obstruction – stones, branches or a weedbed, for example.”

Today’s swim had a further advantage because it was on the inside of a bend. This is where the water is less pacey than in the main flow of the river, so again bait presentation is much improved.

The all-important Float

Like wagglers and pole floats, stick floats come in a huge variety of sizes and types. Selecting the right one for the day depends upon a number of factors – the depth, the smoothness of the water, the intended quarry and the distance you intend to fish are all essential considerations.

In general terms, a wire-stemmed float is best in boily water or for the less-experienced float angler because it is more stable and therefore easier to control. On the downside, the extra weight of the stem will affect bait presentation, so it’s a balancing act.

The spool needs to filled right up to the lip

A cane stem is perfect for fishing on-the-drop for silverfish, as the shot can be strung out, shirt button-style, but these floats are a little harder to master.When sizing up what weight of float you need, We uses the ratio of one No.4 shot per foot of water. With today’s peg being 8ft deep, his starting point was an 8xNo.4 float.

Float rods of 13ft-14ft are the ideal length 

You can go heavier or lighter, depending on the speed of flow and the direction of the wind. Ideally, We will use the lightest float We can get away with on the day.

For the shot, We always loads his rigs with No.8s because more smaller shot offer a greater range of shotting patterns – bulk, spread or paired are all possible.

This choice will again depend upon what we are targeting. The shot will be spread for on-the-drop silverfish, or possibly bulked if chub and barbel are the main quarry.

We always have the shot starting from halfway down the rig. This ensures the fish stay nearer us bottom where we are easier to catch. But if we do come up to intercept the loosefeed having the smaller shot means I can quickly adjust the rig to compensate for this.”

Depth-wise, we always plumbs up both in front and downstream, so we can start the session just tripping bottom.

But as the day continues we will fish from 6in-12in on and off the bottom, depending on how the fish are feeding.

“If the bites are finicky, I will fish overdepth, so the hookbait drags on the bottom, leaving the fish more time to take the bait. If they start to come up, I spread the shot and shallow the
rig accordingly. Another good tip is to always attach the float using three rubbers. Then, if you split one, there’s no need to re-rig".

The best stick float baits

Regardless of the species, we uses a mixture of bronze maggots, hemp and casters. The latter two baits are mixed together in a ratio of 70:30.

Fishing off the rod tip enables you to loosefeed by hand. Anthony tends to feed every run down, feeding around 30 grains of hemp and 10 casters.

“These baits are perfect for creating a bed of bait which is ideal for helping to hold larger fish in the swim for longer,”

“On the hook I generally use either single or double maggot, as they catch everything, but a swap to single or double caster will very often bring a bonus fish if they are in the swim.”

To ensure that the hookbait falls naturally through the loosefeed, we casts the rig at one o’clock, feathering the cast so the rig  lands straight. The casters and hemp are fed slightly upstream of this and the maggots even further (at 12 o’clock) because they are lighter and take longer to sink.

To catch effectively, the hookbait needs to perfectly mimic the loosefeed, otherwise it will look suspicious and be rejected by the fish. To achive this, we regularly lifts the line off the water so that it is behind the float, a process known as ‘mending’ the line.

If the mainline is allowed to bow and get in front of the float, the rig will zig-zag across the flow in an unnatural manner that’s unlikely to earn you a bite.

It is then simply a case of feeding every cast, or to your bites. If they dry up, try going overdepth and cutting back on the feed, as a big fish may have moved in.

If this doesn’t make a difference, shallow up and halve the amount of loosefeed because you may have fed too much and pushed the  fish downstream. Remember that there is no magic formula to fishing the stick float, it is all about trial and error, and refining your technique.

“It may take you a couple of hours to get it right the first time you try, but when you do, you quickly realise just how effective it is when looking to bag up on rivers. The excitement when your float dips under the surface is almost unrivalled.”

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